Replacing front wheel bearings...
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I want to replace my front wheel bearings....is there any other parts I will need to purchase to do the job besides the bearing? Also are you buying 2?
Anybody got a link to where they happily purchased these? Thanks. |
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#1
10-03-2008, 06:53 PM,
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You need 2. One for the left side, one for the right. Nothing else, but it's a good time to check tire balance.
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#2
10-03-2008, 09:49 PM,
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I got mine from Mother Honda. The best I remember they were about $30.00 each and they were sealed bearings which is what the shop manual recomends to use.
1985 Limited Edition
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#3
10-03-2008, 10:36 PM,
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They are a bear to remove, you will need a wheel bearing slide hammer to remove the bearings. they dont come out easy............ 8)
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#4
10-04-2008, 02:08 AM,
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GLhonda will tell you to heat the hubs to remove them, but a big #*3#^$@ slide hammer works too!
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#5
10-04-2008, 02:20 AM,
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Lance is absolutly right, they are a b*&^% to remove.The way they are installed you can't knock them out from the opposite side so you'll need a blind hole bearing puller to get them out. I got mine at harbour frieght. I just wasn't comfortable putting heat on an aluminum wheel. It may be a good idea to repack your speedo drive while you're there. Good luck.
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#6
10-04-2008, 07:01 AM,
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seminolejoe Wrote:Lance is absolutly right, they are a b*&^% to remove.The way they are installed you can't knock them out from the opposite side. I did!!! I used a long punch/big hammer/calibrated strokes to remove the wee Beasties. It's Not easy as stated, but with patience, can be done, and I'd stay away from useing heat on those rim's also IMHO!!
1985 Limited Edition
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#7
10-04-2008, 10:19 AM,
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Marty, heating the front hub is not necessary. I only warm the rear hubs because they are more prone to "cracking" the support. Wheel bearings can be found at any bearing outlet (McGuires brgs, Bearings Inc, We be brgs....) for about half the price of Honda parts. Don't forget the seals. I buy my seals from Honda due to a specific design (arai?) for the left side. You can use a punch and a hammer....but if you distort the center collar (spacer) you'll end up with an uneven surface area that could "cock" the bearing when retorqued. So be careful. Since you have a repair shop, you should have some type of slide hammer puller or possibly a pilot bushing remover that might work.
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#8
10-04-2008, 10:31 AM,
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I would have one of the mechanics do the job....I really did not want to wait for an internet order....have a harbor freight down the street. How does one know what size to buy?
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#9
10-04-2008, 04:26 PM,
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Tropicalsuns Wrote:How does one know what size to buy? You'd need one of the old bearings to get the size so you could buy an aftermarket bearing. That's why I went OEM because to me, $30.00/bearing was not too much for the correct sealed bearing.
1985 Limited Edition
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#10
10-04-2008, 04:48 PM,
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You'll need 2.........Bearing, radial ball, 6302u, selaed.
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#11
10-04-2008, 05:16 PM,
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I guess I'm jumping in on an old thread, but I bought all balls sealed bearings and seal kit through local repair shop for $15. The quality seems top notch. For another $20 they installed them, cheaper than buying even the HF puller and I didn't have to mess with them.
A rainy day off beats a sunny day at work any time..................
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#12
12-27-2008, 07:37 AM,
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The 6302 number (I'm assuming that is correct)
is good enough for a bearing house to give you a replacement. But they have cheap foreign stuff and good stuff, foreign and domestic, so just tell them you care. Also add in whether you want shielded and/or sealed. |
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#13
01-21-2009, 12:41 AM,
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A trick for removing the old bearings is to obtain an anchor bolt used for concrete... You know, the type that expand when you tighten the bolt... I just took the new bearing with me to the store to get the right size... A pair of vise grips will allow you to hold it while tightening the bolt... Once you have the bolt tightened down real good, just take a brass punch (large one) or something similiar and drive the anchor out from the back side... Quite often this destroys the anchor in doing so, but they are pretty cheap...
Once you have one of the bearings out it is pretty straight forward in getting the other one out (now that you can grab it with a bearing puller or just drive it out with a wood dowel)...
Ed Zogg
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#14
01-21-2009, 07:05 AM,
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The anchor bolt is a great idea. Why didn't I think of that?
But really, for $20 and change, I am happy that I had the shop replace them. I pulled the wheel and re-installed...that is the lions share of the work, so I don't really feel like a slouch. :mrgreen:
A rainy day off beats a sunny day at work any time..................
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#15
01-21-2009, 07:24 AM,
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