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Front hand brake question
I did some searching and have read all the posts, but I'm still not sure which way to go here........

I developed a "squeak" in my front left brake hardware. I took the caliper off yesterday, and pulled the pads out to take a look. The pads were pretty worn, so I replaced them with a spare set I had on the shelf. I was able to push the pistons back into the caliper, but they are not moving very freely....it took some effort to push them back a bit. Also, the exposed part of the piston looks kind of grungy, as does the caliper slider pin. The brake is functioning after I bolted everythng back on, but I still have the squeak, part of the caliper bracket is hitting the rotor slightly and causing the noise.

So, question is, is it likely I can remove the pistons and pin from the caliper, clean them up, and re-install, hopefully returning the caliper to good working order? Or should I just go ahead and get the parts an do a rebuild while I have it apart?

Also, I looked at some caliper kits on e bay ... they seem to run anywhere from $25 to $50 for just the boots, seals and dust rings. I thought the kit would include new pistons and pin, but they don't seem to. Does anybody have a good source for the complete caliper kit? Or are new pistons and slider pin not usually necessary??

Thanks in advance for any help..........
A rainy day off beats a sunny day at work any time..................
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#1 07-28-2008, 06:34 AM,
any thoughts?? :cry:
A rainy day off beats a sunny day at work any time..................
Reply
#2 08-05-2008, 05:26 AM,
Are you talking about the slider BOLTS or the caliper pins?

Clean the slider BOLTS and Lube them with never seize.
If you remove the pistons from the caliper it is best to replace the seals also the small rubber dust covers, no doubt they have perished by now.
If the pistons are in reasonable condition you might use them again but after 25 years of grit and dirt if your doing the job then you might as well do it properly and replace them.

I buy my stuff at my local Honda dealer but then I am in Canada, paying for shipping and brokerage fees usually puts the price about the same.

Item Partnumber Description Quantity
0 431A0-MB4-306 Brake pad kit, 2
1 37801-MB0-000 Clamp, speedometer sensor cord, 1
2 43105-MB4-007 Pad comp., RR. (ask), 4
3 43107-MA7-006 Piston, 2
4 45108-MA2-006 Spring, pad, 1
5 43352-568-003 Screw, bleeder, 2
6 43353-461-771 Cap, bleeder screw, 2
9 45100-MG9-871 Caliper, assy., L. FR., 1
10 45101-MG9-771 Caliper comp., L., 1
13 45109-GE2-006 Dust seal, 2
15 45110-MG9-871 Bracket comp., L. FR., 1
16 45111-MA3-006 Sleeve, 2
17 45112-MB9-871 Retainer, FR. Bracket, 2
18 45113-MB7-610 Bridge, caliper bracket, 2
19 45131-MA3-006 Bolt, pin, 2
20 45133-MA3-006 Boot B, 2
21 45133-166-016 Boot, pin, 4
22 45200-MG9-871 Caliper assy., R. FR. (ask), 1
23 45201-MG9-871 Caliper comp., R. FR., 1
25 45209-MA7-006 Seal, piston, 2
26 45210-MG9-871 Bracket comp., R. FR., 1
27 45215-MA3-006 Pin, hanger, 2
29 45217-MA3-006 Plate, 1
31 51536-M82-000 Sleeve, FR. Caliper bracket, 2
32 90131-MB2-000 Bolt, socket, 10x40 2
33 90180-MA3-660 Bolt, flange, 8x55 4
34 91305-MC7-003 O-ring D, 13.8x2.4 4
35 95700-06010-00 Bolt, flange, 6x10 1
36 95700-06010-07 Bolt, flange, 6x10 2


Attached Files
.jpg   caliper front.jpg (Size: 159.04 KB / Downloads: 129)
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#3 08-05-2008, 05:50 AM,
This is my opinion, when it comes to brakes, the manufacturer should know best. The Honda engineers put a very good braking system on this bike. I would use OEM parts from the dealer or other source (bikebandit.com?). Failed location of the OEM parts would then necessitate going to the aftermarket. Now with the bike nearing 24 years old, I would be leaning towards an entire overhaul of the calipers including the pins and bushings that mount them. :twisted: Murphy's Law :twisted: would dictate that know matter how much you clean that piston up, there will be the tiniest morsel of dirt left behind and it will wait until you are far from home and in an isolated spot and then, with out warning, the piston caliper seizes in the ON position. Confusedhock: Yes, this is the voice of experience talking. :oops: Brakes and tires are a couple of things you don't want to mess around with when you've only got two wheels and less than a square foot of contact with the road surface. But, that's just my opinion.... :wink:
Scotty P
Grafton, Ontario, Canada
1997 GL1500 SE
Gone, but not forgotten:
1985 GL1200I
1985 GL1200A
[Image: ON13_Avatar.jpg]
My Red Knights Chapter
My Professional Page
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#4 08-05-2008, 06:56 AM,
Thanks guys.......

I'm going to start shopping for a rebuild kit tomorrow.........
A rainy day off beats a sunny day at work any time..................
Reply
#5 08-05-2008, 06:44 PM,
Hey Tricky,
My front left caliper is sticking and I saw you recommend cleaning and lubing the slider bolts. I've been looking through my Clymer manual and can't figure out which ones you mean.
Thankfully the only stupid questions are the ones not asked.....
Reply
#6 10-25-2008, 07:52 PM,
My mind is slower than my fingers...

Also, any tricks for removing the disc pad pins?
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#7 10-25-2008, 07:55 PM,
You will probably need a punch to drive out those pins after you have removed the retainer. in the manual it says PULL them out, never been able to do that yet Smile

you can see from the picture which parts to lube, it is the pin that has the threaded section below the head that the caliper called a pivot bolt


Attached Files
.jpg   slider.jpg (Size: 42.64 KB / Downloads: 120)
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

Reply
#8 10-25-2008, 09:13 PM,
One other thing to check if the calipers are sticking, check for corrossion behind the O-rings when you have the pistons out. The caliper housing is made of aluminum and will corrode over time in the bottom of the O-ring grooves causing the O-rings to apply excessive pressure to the pistons and not letting them release pad pressure when you release the brakes.

I know cuz this happened on mine!! :mrgreen:
1985 Limited Edition
Reply
#9 10-26-2008, 08:33 AM,
OK, I ordered and received the rebuild kit for my left front brake. Only now did I look in the Clymer manual regarding rebuilding the calipers just to be told to take it to a dealer or "specialist".
I'm handy (did the Poorboy conversion myself) any instructions/clues?
The sticking showed up when the weather turned cool...had a nice 70 degree day yesterday and no more sticking.
I'll probably go ahead and rebuild the caliper anyways with your help.
Reply
#10 11-01-2008, 07:41 AM,
paid4wa Wrote:OK, I ordered and received the rebuild kit for my left front brake. Only now did I look in the Clymer manual regarding rebuilding the calipers just to be told to take it to a dealer or "specialist".
I'm handy (did the Poorboy conversion myself) any instructions/clues?
The sticking showed up when the weather turned cool...had a nice 70 degree day yesterday and no more sticking.
I'll probably go ahead and rebuild the caliper anyways with your help.


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The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

Reply
#11 11-01-2008, 08:03 AM,
The only thing I would change to everyones suggestions, is not to use never sieze on the caliper slide pins. Never sieze is petroleum based & will cause the rubber dust boots to swell & soften up over time, & deteriorate. Get some silicone brake lube at any auto parts store. Its compatible with all the rubber components of the brake system. A small tube or little sample type package is pretty cheap. I would only use the never sieze on the threads of any bolts that go into anything aluminum. Steel bolts & aluminum have a tendency of almost corroding themselves together over time. I've been doing automotive brakes for over 21 yrs, & these are some of the things I've seen over the years. Over all its a pretty easy job. If you've done an alternator conversion, your more than qualified to do this.
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#12 11-01-2008, 10:18 PM,


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