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Anti Dive Settings
It's kinda hard to see with the photos being what they are but if you look carefully you can see that both the right and left number ring rotation is with the #1 position to the left #2 on top etc. The kicker is that on the right side the fastest flow comes from the #4 position at the bottom while on the left side the fast flow comes from the #2 position on top. right side slowest flow is #1 on the left it is #3. I'll look in my manual and see if there is a way that these could possibly have been turned at some previous point in time. I'll let ya know what I find, Joe
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#16 04-05-2008, 09:50 AM,
SeminoleJoe,

Your numbered anti-dive rings are exactly the same as mine. Also, I was at a used motorcycle dealer today and got to see two other GS1200s. Both of those bikes had exactly the same anti-dive ring number positions as ours. As such, I believe that the rings as they are installed on our bikes are correct and have not been moved from their origiinally installed positions.

My flow test results were as follows:

LEFT Fork Anti-Dive Valve:
2 – Most flow
3 – Less flow
4 – Even less flow
1 – Barely a drip

RIGHT Fork Anti-Dive Valve:
4 – Most flow
1 – Less flow
2 – Even less flow
3 – Barely a drip

So, my "most flow" settings on both sides match yours. But, my "least flow" settings seem reversed (L - R) from yours. Did you perhaps record that wrong when you wrote the email? It would be nice to know if ours match exactly. I'll bet that they do.

Thanks for the pictures of your anti-dive valve numbered rings. We might eventually solve this mystery one day!

It's definitely not making sense that the numbers don't jive with the observed flow rates.
'87 GL1200A - Black/Grey
'06 GL1800 - Arctic White
'81 CB750C - Blue/Blue
U.S. Navy SWO (1967 to 1976)
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#17 04-05-2008, 07:27 PM,
WingMan71 Wrote:SeminoleJoe,

Thanks for verifying your anti-dive settings vs flow rates for me. Makes me think that I'm not way off base by myself here!

Harry,

Yes, I am saying that the anti-dive settings stamped on the numbered rings don't match the actual flow rates, at least on my bike. See the following thread for my test results and what started this discussion.

<!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=2439">viewtopic.php?f=50&t=2439</a><!-- l -->

I'd be curious to know if the numbered anti-dive setting rings on your bike match mine, or Tricky's.
Wingman,
Yes, mine are the same. They are stamped 1-4 with increase in clockwise direction (left #1 is forward/right #1 is rearward)
I"m kinda dis-abled for a few days but hope to get out this week and really make an attempt at trying road testing in all four positions and see if I really get any differance. They were in #2 when I purchased her, however I had adjusted to #3 and had no noted difference.
I really need to drain and re-fill mine prior to next month either way just to make myself fell better.
So I will try your routine and see if it makes a change!
Harry Waggoner
GL1200A "Animal"

GWRRA VA-B
More ROCKIN and less Talkin!
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#18 04-05-2008, 09:17 PM,
Harry,

Remember that to properly drain your fork oil, you must have the fork caps removed! Otherwise there is a big vacuum in the tubes and almost no oil will drain.

I know that's kind of a pain, since it's some work removing the caps and even more work ketting them back on again against spring pressure, particularly with the stock springs which extend way past the top of the fork tube when uncompressed. If you have Progressive Suspension springs, its much easier, as they only extend about an inch above the fork tube.
'87 GL1200A - Black/Grey
'06 GL1800 - Arctic White
'81 CB750C - Blue/Blue
U.S. Navy SWO (1967 to 1976)
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#19 04-06-2008, 07:14 AM,
WingMan71 Wrote:Harry,

Remember that to properly drain your fork oil, you must have the fork caps removed! Otherwise there is a big vacuum in the tubes and almost no oil will drain.

I know that's kind of a pain, since it's some work removing the caps and even more work ketting them back on again against spring pressure, particularly with the stock springs which extend way past the top of the fork tube when uncompressed. If you have Progressive Suspension springs, its much easier, as they only extend about an inch above the fork tube.
I did this on my 75 with stock springs and didnt have as much of a hassle re-installing as some people claimed it would be.
Of course the 1200 is a different "Animal" (sneaked that one in) but it still shouldnt be to big a deal getting the tops back on again...... 8)
Harry Waggoner
GL1200A "Animal"

GWRRA VA-B
More ROCKIN and less Talkin!
Reply
#20 04-06-2008, 10:32 AM,
One has to remove the caps in order to re-fill anyway.
Some people drill and tap the cap and use a tapered Allen pipe plug
Then you can change the fork oil without removing the caps


Attached Files
.jpg   78flush.jpg (Size: 9.1 KB / Downloads: 720)
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#21 04-06-2008, 01:17 PM,
tricky Wrote:One has to remove the caps in order to re-fill anyway.
Some people drill and tap the cap and use a tapered Allen pipe plug
Then you can change the fork oil without removing the caps

Thats a very good idea!
I might just do that when she's down...... Smile
Harry Waggoner
GL1200A "Animal"

GWRRA VA-B
More ROCKIN and less Talkin!
Reply
#22 04-08-2008, 09:07 PM,
That's a pretty neat trick there Tricky. Maybe that's an insite to your screen name there huh? I wasn't planning on opening the anti dive drain again but now my curiosity won't let me rest seeing as how I'm wanting to set the system up for a medium resistance. I think that will be sufficiant since I now have new progressive springs in the front. I'll write down the info this time so I'll be sure to have it on hand and accurate. Like walter says "dumb @$$".

Ok, I finally got around to rechecking the anti-dive flows

left side
2-max flow
3-less flow
4-even slower
1-slowest

right side
4-max flow
1-less flow
2-even slower
3-slowest

I've set my settings on 4-left and 2-right. I figure with the new springs that should be stout enough.
So it seems that mine are the same. What this means I have no idea but at least now I know they are both on the same setting.
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#23 04-09-2008, 01:54 PM,
Hello,

I did a front fork rebuild, new seals, bushings, and progressive springs, with 15w bel ray oil. my setting was

Left 3,
right 1,

with Progessives it says to adjust to most flow. My numbers are in the position that most people are discussing.

I am going to change mine and see if I notice a differance.

changed to,
Left 2
Right 4

Now comes the fun part the test ride Oh Yea!

UPDATE;

Test ride seems a little softer on the LEFT 2, RIGHT 4 setting, I also put 3 psi in my front forks with Progressive springs anyone add air to their front end. It seemed softer yet still firm just not as harsch.

Westwing
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#24 06-05-2008, 10:15 AM,
OK TRY THIS AND LET ME KNOW>>>
first: IGNORE the dot.......I repeat IGNORE the dot.
SET adjuster at max FLOW
ONE end of the slot will be pointing at number 1 position (light anti dive)
MARK that end of the slot and use this as the indicator.( NOT THE DOT).
You will see that everything now makes sense....
Am I making any sense.??????
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#25 06-05-2008, 05:35 PM,
Thanks for the heads up on the anti dive setting,great ride at the 2&4 setting. Now I know why the left fork seal was blowing. The bike has progressive springs in front, had tried different setting before could not tell any difference in ride or handing. Thanks everyone! Big Grin
joe
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#26 06-08-2008, 05:54 AM,
Just read all of the posts on this topic, went outside and looked to see what my TRAC setup looked like. Guess what...it is the same as Wingman's. On both the left and right sides the number dial goes from 1 to 4 in a clockwise direction?? I have no reason to open up my forks right now so I cannot confirm the flow, but I think I will try setting left at 3 and right at 1. Will post the results later.
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#27 07-21-2008, 10:56 AM,
Update:

I purposely took side roads last night on my way home from work to check and see if I noticed any difference from changing the TRAC settings. Front end seemed to have more life to it. Also, when I got back on to the highway I noted that my front end didn't wobble anymore while driving on this particular stretch of new pavement (scored asphalt with lines cut into it for water displacement purposes I guess). Anyway, the bike seems more responsive to corners and bumps now so I think I will keep the settings this way. I wonder how many other Wing owners out there might have a similar setup on the TRAC?
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#28 07-22-2008, 09:40 AM,
I have a couple of questions for a few people. Let me preface this by saying that I've been a mechanic (either amateur or professional) for 25 years, I've had my Wing for 5 years and this is my second post on this board.

First, I'd like to point out that the TRAC setting should make no difference in ride quaility at all. It SHOULD only change the damping characteristics under braking.

Those who are doing flow test when draining the oil, are you flexing the lever on the TRAC when draining the fluid? TRAC is only activated when the lever is flexed. On the road, that lever is flexed by the brake rotor pulling the caliper when the brakes are applied.
Turtle
86 Interstate, ex  police bike
85 LTD, parting out

[Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
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#29 08-12-2008, 07:10 AM,
garyft Wrote:First, I'd like to point out that the TRAC setting should make no difference in ride quaility at all. It SHOULD only change the damping characteristics under braking.

Okay, I can see your point about it only affecting the dampening during braking. Any ideas as to why the dial setup is different between the bikes cited in this thread?
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#30 08-12-2008, 08:07 AM,


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