Randakk's master carb kit for GL1200's, EXCELLENT QUALITY

[pstelter]

Andy -

Thanks for the reply. Everything is broken down and segregated by carb number. I used Dawn dish soap to clean the plenum, but will probably re-attack with a soak. I know you aren't supposed to use cab cleaner on the needle valve, but something as mild as Dawn should be ok, don't you think?

- Pete

[BigBro]

I don't know about Dawn dish soap. Only because I haven't used it.
I soaked in small containers each set of needles and seats in the Pine-Sol. I think I left them for about 1 hrs and then rinsed them off with water. But again you do need to be careful with them. Just make sure they look rubbery and not harden or discolored.

I know they use Dawn on Oil soaked critters and such so it is fairly safe. Just not sure how well it will work on the carb varnish and gunk. The real key I believe is ensuring you can pass air through every part and it's associated jets etc. before you close them up. You could use a hand air pump it doesn't take much. The jets are precision so it isn't good to pass anything through them other than a whisker or a broom straw.

Soaking is good in any fashion, boiling in distilled water would be ok as well. I know the Pinesol had just a bit of caustic effect to it. I was also doing timing belts and water pump and the parts I soaked for 24 hrs the coatings on them got soft. However, it wasnt caustic enough to remove the Front cover gaskets I had to scrape those...

Slow and Steady is the way Pete.

As you go through it check and double check. I had to work only in evenings and I took lots of pictures as I went and took a whole week putting it all back together, did a bench sync and bench leak test. Guess what she started and ran almost perfect first startup. Just some minor tweaking.

[admin]

I tried a bit of liquid dishwasher soap and it cleaned the carb surprisingly well without any adverse effects to the aluminum. All deposits on the carb was removed and left the carb spotless. The boiling process worked extremely well in my case and I blew out all passages while the carb was hot to further aid in releasing all passageway debris.

[BigBro]

See I was sure someone on this site would chime in whether or not Dawn worked.
I thought it might but I had no specific knowledge for it.

Good Luck Pete.

Be Patient and please ask lots will offer help you just might have to wait until the riding time has lapsed where we sit. It is getting to be that time of year. I did 120 miles RT to my work today. Oh so sweet.

[Roleketu]

I have successfully completed my first carburetor rebuild project. It fired right up and ran smooth immediately. Then I proceeded to sync the carburetors with my Carbtune Pro. Its the second time I used the Carbtune. This is the results at idle and about 4000RPM.

[pstelter]

So the Dawn worked passably well. I soaked the carb assemblies overnight in some soapy water and scrubbed them with various cleaning implements. A lot of the stains came off with some mechanical coaxing. However, I did switch over to the Honda Carb Cleaner because:

a. I had some, and
b. The nozzle is able to get into all the corners and crevices that I can't reach with a brush

I still think the use of the Dawn was warranted because it was able to knock back some the easy dirt, so I won't need to use so much of the carb cleaner.

I think the end is in sight and I can probably start re-assembling this weekend. I still need to clean the carb internals. I know I can't use the carb cleaner on the needle diaphragm. But can I use it on the float pieces? Thanks.

[ember1205]

I have used carb cleaner on all metal parts of a carb, but keep it away from the plastic and rubber pieces. With that said, I have sprayed carb cleaner through the holes that the pins insert through to guide the floats.

One of the things you want to do with the floats themselves is to submerge them in some gasoline for a little while (you'll need something to hold them under) and see if they start to fill with fuel. If they do, replace them. Otherwise, there isn't much that you need to do to them.

[pstelter]

For float testing the floats, can I just use water?

[ember1205]

I suppose that you could... I've always done it in gas because that's what it floats in when in the bike.

[pstelter]

Ok...some questions on re-assembly:

1. Is there any polarity to the float valve? Or do you just loop it over the bracket on the float?
2. I seem to be short a couple of springs. One is the spring on the starter link set - the one that os compressed with the black soda-straw piece. I was very careful in taking the linkages apart, so it didn't shoot across the shop. The other is the spring that goes between the yoke arms on the throttle linkage (part 13 on the CARB COMP PARTS fiche). Just frustrating that today they decided to go missing.

[pstelter]

Which of the two link sets is the Link A and which is the Link B? Is the link B the one with the reach rods that go under the plenum? One of the sets has a longer spring. I have two long springs, and one shorter one. I believe that the shorter spring is associated with the link set that has the long reach rods. Can someone confirm that for me?

Also, the groups that I have on my workbench (ok...ping pong table) have the reach rods on the link sets for carbs 1&4. Is this correct or did they get mixed up?

Thanks for everyone;s help thus far. I hope everyone had a great Father's Day!

- Pete

[BigBro]

Ok...some questions on re-assembly:

1. Is there any polarity to the float valve? Or do you just loop it over the bracket on the float?
2. I seem to be short a couple of springs. One is the spring on the starter link set - the one that os compressed with the black soda-straw piece. I was very careful in taking the linkages apart, so it didn't shoot across the shop. The other is the spring that goes between the yoke arms on the throttle linkage (part 13 on the CARB COMP PARTS fiche). Just frustrating that today they decided to go missing.

1) To my knowledge the Float valve has a hook on it that pulls from centerline so it shouldn't matter. I can't recall if it was different on mine. I would at least set them all the same way if it appears they would not pull from center line of the actual valve.

2)On the springs unless you can find someone that has them you most likely have to order them. I see #13 is listed as available here http://www.hondabikes.com/fiche_section_...veh=132500. I think that other one you are looking for is like a linkage return spring for the starter circuit .. I think it is also visible in that Parts fiche link I gave you.

---

Which of the two link sets is the Link A and which is the Link B? Is the link B the one with the reach rods that go under the plenum? One of the sets has a longer spring. I have two long springs, and one shorter one. I believe that the shorter spring is associated with the link set that has the long reach rods. Can someone confirm that for me?

Also, the groups that I have on my workbench (ok...ping pong table) have the reach rods on the link sets for carbs 1&4. Is this correct or did they get mixed up?

Thanks for everyone;s help thus far. I hope everyone had a great Father's Day!

- Pete

I looked over all the pictures I took doing my carbs. I cannot see a difference in the springs.
The reach rods go to carbs 1 and 4 and come out from between the pairs of mounted carbs.

So if you have them that way then they are correct.

[pstelter]

I'd like to offer some shout-outs to some board members...

BigBro (Andy) - for guiding me to a dealer that has the sync spring. Hopefully, spares should arrive soon!

wallbrad (Brad)- for pointing me to Harbor Freight. Bought there box o'springs for 5 bucks. Was able to find a similar diameter spring and trimmed it to size. Worked on the first try!

Thanks guys!