Thread Rating:
  • 4 Vote(s) - 3 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Spring startup...Won't start
Last fall i replaced the head gaskets, i now have oil dripping from 6mm bolt area, but that is subject for another post, but bike idled good in garage. Startup this year went fine, new oil, new battery & fresh fuel, minor maintenance...started first crank, ran good in garage.
First ride went 5 blocks and Wing quit, rolled to curb. would't start again, trailered home. I did feel engine vibration. I have spark. While cranking it puffs alot and backfires. no fuel odor on plugs. Put starting fluid in cylinders and started once and idled 5 minutes, then quit...again. Put starting fluid in again and puffs and backfires...no start. Fuel Pump runs, disconnected fuel filter to verify fuel exits filter. Remembering that this bike is a SEI, Fuel Injected, uncomplicates things to not having to deal with 4 carbs. Any suggestions?
Huh
Reply
#1 04-16-2015, 01:23 AM,
Vacuum line? Did you reconnect them? Are they damaged or pinched! Just my guess, but it may have not restarted because it was flooded with starter fluid.
1997 Valkyrie Tourer, 1987 Burgandy Aspencade with poorboy installed, and a 2005 Red GL 1800.
Reply
#2 04-16-2015, 04:41 AM,
To me it sounds like fuel starvation.
An engine will vibrate when a cylinder is not doing its job due to no spark or no fuel.
Backfiring can be due to a lean situation, too much air or too little fuel.

When dealing with gasoline, work with plenty of CVF. CAUTION. VENTILATION. FEAR.

Start at the beginning:
Plenty of fresh fuel in the tank
Petcock is in the ‘On’ position
Fuel exits the fuel filter at the same rate it enters (filter is not clogged or restrictive)
Fuel pump runs
Does fuel come out of the fuel pump when it runs?
Does the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor assembly have a kink or sharp bend in it?

The engine will run nice for as long as there is fuel in the carburetor bowls. Once those bowls have emptied, the engine will not run well and will quit.

Trying to get an engine to idle simply on starter fluid and no fuel in the bowls is a waste of time.

If you have verified fuel is coming out of the fuel pump as per the manual, and there are no visible kinks or restrictions in the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor assembly, I would recommend trying to manually fill the float bowls.

Disconnect the fuel line coming OUT of the fuel pump and pour fuel into the fuel line leading to the carburetor assemblies.
It should take a fair amount of fuel before the hose overflows.
If not, there is a blockage in the fuel line on the carburetor assembly, or one or more of your floats is stuck in the closed position or one or more of the filter screens at the fuel valve is clogged or collapsed and that will need to be addressed.
If it took a fair amount of fuel, reconnect the fuel line to the OUT side of the fuel pump, activate the enrichment circuit (or choke, whatever you want to call it) and the bike should fire up and settle into its normal idle.
If all is working properly, the engine will continue to run more than 10 or 15 minutes. Run the engine with a fan on the radiator to minimize the engine overheating.
If it quits again, turn the ignition off and open one of the float bowl drains by unscrewing the screw in the bowl.
If an amount of fuel comes out equal to what you think the bowl should hold, try another carburetor drain screw.
I suspect one or more of the carburetors aren’t getting its designed amount of fuel.

Good Luck and remember CVF!
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#3 04-16-2015, 09:28 AM,
Thanks bs175dths, my bike is a fuel injected SEI, sorry i didn't mention that. I added a last line to my original post explaining that more clearly. I'm starting to agree it's fuel starved and thinking maybe fuel pump not running to full capacity or filter plugged. Previous owner replaced pump once with a used pump from salvage yard. New is no longer available. I purchased new Wix fuel filter today. Looking at the rate fuel comes out of hose is not very scientific. The fuel came out of the hose like pouring out a pop bottle. Next I need a gauge to measure the fuel pressure. Does anyone know the recommended fuel pressure? Maybe there's not enough pressure to open injectors?
Reply
#4 04-16-2015, 06:58 PM,
checking fuel pressure is located on page 10-20 of the SEI supplement
you can measure the measure at the fuel rail on right side under the cover

34-38 lbs pressure key on engine not running
28-34 lbs pressure engine idling

since you lkept mc outside under a cover,if fuel tank wasn't completely full you may have gotten alot of water condensation in tank.might try some additive in tank (deicer)
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
Reply
#5 04-17-2015, 04:46 PM,
(04-16-2015, 06:58 PM)brobbed Wrote: Thanks bs175dths, my bike is a fuel injected SEI, sorry i didn't mention that. I added a last line to my original post explaining that more clearly. I'm starting to agree it's fuel starved and thinking maybe fuel pump not running to full capacity or filter plugged. Previous owner replaced pump once with a used pump from salvage yard. New is no longer available. I purchased new Wix fuel filter today. Looking at the rate fuel comes out of hose is not very scientific. The fuel came out of the hose like pouring out a pop bottle. Next I need a gauge to measure the fuel pressure. Does anyone know the recommended fuel pressure? Maybe there's not enough pressure to open injectors?
SEI.... yep....... a different animal than the carb wings.......
Anyway...... still sounds like it is fuel related.
Most all of the suggestions apply..... but others apply as well.
As you mentioned, is there sufficient fuel pressure?, are the injectors opening when they should?, are they spraying or spitting?
It sounds like it is time to study what it takes to allow fuel injection to function, and then go from there.
I suggest this to anyone who will listen...... if you understand how it works, then you can troubleshoot it effectively and effectively repair it as opposed to just throwing parts (and $$$) at the problem and getting frustrated.
I am not too versed with FI but do understand there are sensors or triggers which must function correctly or the system does not work.
Good Luck!
Study hard.
I am sure there are other members here who can assist you.
In the meantime, and if you haven't already done so, read all there is about FI at this forum.
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#6 04-17-2015, 09:17 PM,
Thanks...on the rite fuel rail i found the 6mm bolt for checking fuel pressure. Removed it and when pump is running no fuel came out. I hooked my hand vacuum pump to Fuel Pressure Regulator and fuel spirting out now, real happy, thought that fix it. no way...no start. I went Auto Parts store to rent Fuel Pressure Tester and found 6mm bolt hole to small to hook up to, an 8mm x 1.0 is the size needed. I am contemplating buying 8mm tap and drill and tap bigger size so i can get a pressure reading, now and future. Is this what everyone does??? Do you think should replace pressure regulator also?
Also...it has been suggested to me that there is a resistor or something 4"x 2"box under seat that might be the problem. Do you know correct name of this part and if it controls the FI? I'll check the resistance on that also.
Reply
#7 04-20-2015, 07:33 AM,
as i recall i used a fuel pressure tester from HF
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-inject...92699.html

with key on do you have 12v thru fuse #9
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
Reply
#8 04-20-2015, 09:43 PM,
You should approach this problem in an orderly fashion.
Don’t hunt and peck in the hopes of finding the problem. There may be more than one issue not allowing the engine to function.
Before testing something, like the resistor under the seat someone mentioned, might have something to do with the running of the engine, find out exactly what it does, how it is supposed to be hooked up, its role in the overall scheme.
You don’t want to be chasing your tail, doing repeat tests and expecting different results.
I would start with relays and fuses to make sure all are functioning as they should, then go to the devices these relays and fuses are supposed to send power to to make sure they are getting the power they need, when they need it.
Get a schematic for the SEI wiring and CFI.
Relay 4 is the cfi main relay
Relay 5 is the fuel pump relay

There is no point checking the fuel pump if the fuel pump relay is defective.

Good Luck.
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#9 04-24-2015, 08:41 AM,
[attachment=3367]Today i got my answer, is the no start connected to Fuel Pump and/or Pressure Regulator? It is NOT either of them. I had a buddy drill and tap the Banjo Bolt below the fuel filter w/8mm threads to fit the auto part store Fuel Pressure Kit fitting. This was easier than enlarging the 6mm right fuel rail port. Now I can use any auto parts store Fuel Pressure Test Kit anytime. It tested 38-40psi pressure, and 20-22oz in 1 minute for volume test. Neoracer informed me Harbor Freight sells a kit for $20 that he uses, to late for that now. My next journey is why is not the Injectors opening?


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       
Reply
#10 04-25-2015, 05:01 PM,
The proper tool can make all the difference. Even if you have to make the tool……

I have been doing some reading and it appears FI bikes can run great one minute and then not run at all the next minute, and nothing had been touched during that one minute interval.
Some of the suggestions were to un-seat, clean and inspect, then re-seat the electrical connections of the fuel injection system. Plugs at the injectors, sensors, and the ECU, were all mentioned in the list of plugs.
Care and caution must be taken when dealing with the ECU as it can be damaged as fast as the speed of a moving electron.
In one case, the suggestion included the cleaning of the connector which went to a large resistor mounted on the rear fender. The connector had 1 black and 2 white wires. The resistor was referred to at the injector resistor and an explanation was given.
What I read was:
The CFI main is energized
Power from fuse 9 can flow through to the black wire entering the resistor
The white wires run to the injectors, one white wire goes to injectors 1 and 3, the other white wire goes to injectors 2 and 4.

If that connection is loose, dirty or has corrosion, the injectors will not work.

Again, I am not well versed with EFI, nor do I own an EFI GL, but, it does make some interesting reading.


Good Luck

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#11 04-27-2015, 08:57 AM,


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Smoke Cloud at Startup - Valve seals or something more? desertrefugee 11 1,052 10-24-2011, 04:45 PM
Last Post: badwing1200
  squeeeeeelll at startup 4 499 11-09-2010, 09:51 AM
Last Post: bs175dths

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Contact Us | GL1200 GOLDWINGS | Return to Top | | Lite (Archive) Mode | RSS Syndication
google-site-verification: googled4b4fe31e07b65d8.html