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2014 Brake System Upgrade
(03-24-2014, 04:16 PM)Roleketu Wrote: Damn, it's still friggin cold in the North-East! Didn't get above freezing today. However I did manage to access the brake line connection for the right front caliper buried under the coils and loads of other wires and connectors. The clutch line is next to the brake line, however it doesn't split to a metal line like the brake hose. The clutch line seems to be all one section from the handle bar to the clutch. The replacement would only go to the spot under the coils.

I found this in a post from 2011. It helped me immensely when i replaced mine on my 85. I got my lines from Venco Wings at the time as I live close by. Sadly, Jim Venne has passed and that wonderful resource is gone. I miss him and the talks we had...

I just did this the past weekend. I added a single Stainless Line.

SO you do NOT have to remove the fairing but as with everything on this bike it is a very tight fit and hard to work in some spots.

1. Remove Seat
2. Remove False Tank
3. Remove Handle bar cover and little trip computer
4. Remove backing plate from the handle bars (2 10mm bolts holds this down the original clutch hose runs thru a clamp on the back of this plate).
5. Lay under bike and look up thru fairing right by the shocks on the frame is a fold down tab that is holding the hose in place. Bend back this tab.
6. Remove air filter and air filter basket from carb (this was a PITA for me because one of the screws stripped out).
Once removed you'll see the clutch line runs UNDER the ignition and MAIN Wiring Harness.
7. Remove spark plug cables from 1st ignition coil (Might as well replace plug cables at this time if you have too?)
8. push back "Gently" the main wiring harness you will see this is where the Hose and the Metal line connect under another fold down tab. Rubber line is 17mm wrench and steal line is I believe a 10mm wrench. This was also bound up and I could not separate on my bike. I ended up having to cut it out! I didn't mind cutting because this clutch line was leaking already and had to go.
9. Once all disconnected pulling out the line is pretty strait forward, run the new SS line the same way and it is a PERFECT fit.

I wish I took pictures for you but I didn't, I didn't think to try to take pictures as I only have a Cell Phone camera...

Good Luck!
Glenn Clave
Loudon,NH

"If it's too big to eat in one sitting you probably shouldn't run over it"

85/84 "AspenState" Senior-Gray metallic (Sold but not forgotten)
2001 GL1800 Apollo Blue
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#16 03-25-2014, 07:30 PM,
(03-25-2014, 07:30 PM)gclave Wrote:
(03-24-2014, 04:16 PM)Roleketu Wrote: Damn, it's still friggin cold in the North-East! Didn't get above freezing today. However I did manage to access the brake line connection for the right front caliper buried under the coils and loads of other wires and connectors. The clutch line is next to the brake line, however it doesn't split to a metal line like the brake hose. The clutch line seems to be all one section from the handle bar to the clutch. The replacement would only go to the spot under the coils.

I found this in a post from 2011. It helped me immensely when i replaced mine on my 85. I got my lines from Venco Wings at the time as I live close by. Sadly, Jim Venne has passed and that wonderful resource is gone. I miss him and the talks we had...

I just did this the past weekend. I added a single Stainless Line.

SO you do NOT have to remove the fairing but as with everything on this bike it is a very tight fit and hard to work in some spots.

1. Remove Seat
2. Remove False Tank
3. Remove Handle bar cover and little trip computer
4. Remove backing plate from the handle bars (2 10mm bolts holds this down the original clutch hose runs thru a clamp on the back of this plate).
5. Lay under bike and look up thru fairing right by the shocks on the frame is a fold down tab that is holding the hose in place. Bend back this tab.
6. Remove air filter and air filter basket from carb (this was a PITA for me because one of the screws stripped out).
Once removed you'll see the clutch line runs UNDER the ignition and MAIN Wiring Harness.
7. Remove spark plug cables from 1st ignition coil (Might as well replace plug cables at this time if you have too?)
8. push back "Gently" the main wiring harness you will see this is where the Hose and the Metal line connect under another fold down tab. Rubber line is 17mm wrench and steal line is I believe a 10mm wrench. This was also bound up and I could not separate on my bike. I ended up having to cut it out! I didn't mind cutting because this clutch line was leaking already and had to go.
9. Once all disconnected pulling out the line is pretty strait forward, run the new SS line the same way and it is a PERFECT fit.

I wish I took pictures for you but I didn't, I didn't think to try to take pictures as I only have a Cell Phone camera...

Good Luck!

Excellent post Glenn, thank you. I had not heard about Jim and am saddened about that news. This would also explain why Randakk's took over Jim's brake hose connection with Paragon Performance.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#17 03-26-2014, 03:53 AM,
Thanks for your information. However, I couldn't imagine accessing the clutch and brake lines for replacement without removing the fairing. I even had to remove the coils just to get my fingers near the brake fitting. Then to my surprise, the clutch line DID NOT have a fitting connector. The clutch line is a one piece from the clutch lever to the clutch with banjo fittings on both ends. The Hel Performance line I received was for a a line with a fitting under the coils similar to the brake line. I called Jim Miller the "Lead Brake Tech" at Hel Permormance and he found notes that some of these Wings did use a one piece line. He questioned the notes that it was 82 inches in length. Further, he said if I confirm the line length he'd build one and send it right out. I did get it out and it measures 73 inches. The difference of 9 inches might be good for improved routing. In my last post on this thread you can see the new brake line in the fore ground and the solid clutch line in the back.
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#18 03-26-2014, 03:38 PM,
Cleared cache test
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#19 03-26-2014, 04:57 PM,
(03-26-2014, 04:57 PM)Roleketu Wrote: Cleared cache test

Any improvement?
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#20 03-26-2014, 05:07 PM,
Same blank page, trying this post with Internet Explorer, I've been using Firefox.

Getting error's with IE too. Not a blank page but this error:

Info icon
The website cannot display the page

HTTP 500


Most likely causes:
•The website is under maintenance.
•The website has a programming error.


What you can try:



Refresh the page.



Go back to the previous page.



More information More information
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[Image: VisitedStatesMap_zps8229ee64.jpg]
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#21 03-26-2014, 06:15 PM,
(03-26-2014, 06:15 PM)Roleketu Wrote: Same blank page, trying this post with Internet Explorer, I've been using Firefox.

Getting error's with IE too. Not a blank page but this error:

Info icon
The website cannot display the page

HTTP 500


Most likely causes:
•The website is under maintenance.
•The website has a programming error.


What you can try:



Refresh the page.



Go back to the previous page.



More information More information

I have been working on the site, please try again now.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#22 03-26-2014, 06:53 PM,
Hel Performance USA built and shipped the new one piece clutch line real fast. It was the simplest line to re-install because the OEM had rubber line at both ends with a few feet of bent steel line in between. The Hel line was all stainless steel braided with both ends banjo fitting at a 20 percent angle. The brake lines were just about all installed when for some reason I was checking the fitting ends and noticed the Hel fittings are bubble flared and the OEM fittings are double flared. Egad! The brake set was shipped from England before I knew there was a USA site in Pennsylvania. I ordered the clutch line from the USA site. The England order sat in customs for almost six weeks. So I decided to make the lines with the fittings work. Bought new steel lines with fittings that matched the Hel bubble flare fittings and cut one end off and reused the double flared OEM fittings for the other end. Had to rebend the new steel lines from the rear master cylinder to the hose for the rear caliper and a small line that connects the two hoses from the left hand front brake cylinder to the front left caliper. I'm yet to see if everything seals.

And speaking of sealing, I re-installed the new water pump and the front lower engine cover. I dread the idea that so many items are left to chance that they'll stay in place when the cover is bolted up. I quite sure the water pump lined up ok to the oil pump because I can't turn the water pump. The gear indicator notches, oil tubes, and a few o-rings are all things you can't be certain stayed in place. I did use small dabs of high heat RTV silicone sealant to adhere the o-rings in place. It scares the hell out of me that I won't know if something didn't stay in place till its all together and I start the the bike.


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#23 03-31-2014, 07:29 PM,
When installing O rings use lard it will hold them in place.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#24 04-01-2014, 10:11 AM,
In my experience, RTV silicone sealant is not a really good idea on O-rings. It can actually cause a disruption in the sealing process. Sometimes it does work, but, more often than not it doesn't work. Good luck.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#25 04-01-2014, 12:37 PM,
Dang nice day today. Sunny and 62 F. Made good progress. Rebuilt both front calipers with OEM Honda seals, pistons and EBC semi-sintered brake pads. Bolted and torqued up the two new front EBC Pro-Lite rotors. Didn't torque down the axle caps as an additional semi related project, I'm fabricating a bracket for the front fork for some more lights. The bracket in the photo is a temporary aluminum sheet metal for sizing. The final bracket will be sturdier and stainless steel. (Disclaimer, I'm not fabricating the brackets, my father-in-law was a Tin Knocker by trade. He's awesome bending, twisting, and fabricating metal.)


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#26 04-02-2014, 06:05 PM,
Over my two days off I made good progress in the re-assembly process. Temporarily I did have a bit of anxiety when after bolting up the fairing and plugging in all the connectors I turned the key on and didn't get any gear indicator information. And when tapping the start button nothing happened. At this point I still don't have oil, coolant, brake or clutch fluid. If I had to redo the front lower cover I didn't want do drain fluids again. By now it was dinner time and I wasn't going to do the front cover over tonight. At dinner I talked about it so much that the wife suggested I go post to that Goldwing site for suggestions. After dinner and a shower I was sitting and looking at my photos of the project. I take a gazillion photos just in case. And all of a sudden I saw my issue. Looking at a photo from the front cover view just after I installed the cover, there lying on the floor is the still unplugged connector wire coming from the front lower cover. DOH! I jolt out to the garage with a flashlight locate the other end connector, plug it in and BAM, gear indicator lights. Clicked from, N-Green Light, to 1, to 2, and back. Without any clutch fluid I decided not to attempt higher gears. Now I look forward to Wednesday when I can install the radiator, add coolant, oil, and clutch fluid. I might even be able to start it Wednesday.


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#27 04-07-2014, 11:12 PM,
More good forward progress today. Got the radiator and alternator installed. Filled the coolant (Evans NPG+) and oil (Amsoil 10w-40). Bled the clutch line. Started the Wing and she fired right up. Let it idle to operating temp. Then I ran the shifter through the gears confirming the dash gear indicator works correctly. Feeling much better knowing the front lower cover from the water pump change installed correctly with all pins, o-rings, oil pump shaft, and gear indicator lining up. Then got the front wheel with the new EBC Pro-Lite rotors installed. Torqued up the rebuilt calipers and attached the Hel Performance stainless steel braided brake lines. Next day off I'll start with bleeding the brakes.


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#28 04-09-2014, 05:41 PM,
(04-09-2014, 05:41 PM)Roleketu Wrote: More good forward progress today. Got the radiator and alternator installed. Filled the coolant (Evans NPG+) and oil (Amsoil 10w-40). Bled the clutch line. Started the Wing and she fired right up. Let it idle to operating temp. Then I ran the shifter through the gears confirming the dash gear indicator works correctly. Feeling much better knowing the front lower cover from the water pump change installed correctly with all pins, o-rings, oil pump shaft, and gear indicator lining up. Then got the front wheel with the new EBC Pro-Lite rotors installed. Torqued up the rebuilt calipers and attached the Hel Performance stainless steel braided brake lines. Next day off I'll start with bleeding the brakes.

Don't forget to rinse the rotors with brake cleaner and then wipe and dry then thoroughly before driving the bike, otherwise, the pads might glaze/overheat and not break in properly.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#29 04-09-2014, 05:47 PM,
Finally got the Wing all buttoned up and running today. And yes thank you, I did use brake clean on the rotors. Bled all three calipers. Gosh I love the "Speed Bleeders". Let it idle for about 15 minutes, then drove it for a few miles to operating temp. Parked it on center stand let it idle more and used the spot lamp and checked all over and under for any drips/leaks. Tomorrow I'll scrub all my grubby finger prints and the winter garage dirt from the bike. Then go for a ride to "bed" in the new pads.
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#30 04-13-2014, 07:31 PM,


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