GRRRR....Want to Ride first week as a GW owner

[bs175dths]

First, operate the brake pedal and see that the brake light operates.
(Yes, I know you mentioned it does work, but let’s start at a known good point – ignition is ON and the bulbs work)
Next, make sure the circuit works without the switch.
Basically, remove the two wires going to the switch and touch them together.
If that doesn’t operate the brake lights, you may not be getting power TO the switch and additional investigating will be required.
If that doesn’t operate the brake lights, reattach the wires to the switch and operate the hand lever.
If that doesn’t operate the brake lights, remove the two wires and then remove the switch from the handlebars.
If yours is like mine, there should be a little button on the side of the switch somewhere. This is how the switch is operated by the lever.
Also, if yours is like mine, there should be a small hole in the top or bottom of the switch housing.
If you look in that hole while depressing and releasing the little button, you should see some movement. These are the contacts and arms inside.
Spray some contact cleaner (or WD-40 will work) in the little hole, it doesn’t take much.
Using your fingers, manually operate the switch through many, many cycles of off/on.
This will clean off possible dirt, or oxidation which may have accumulated on the contacts of the switch of your 27-year-old motorcycle.
You can bench test the switch or simply plug the two wires back onto the switch and operate it manually.
This procedure should work.
If this doesn’t work, it might need replacement.

Remember, if you aren’t getting power TO the switch, then trace that feed back until you locate the trouble spot.
If the brake pedal operated the brake lights, it is not the fuse since the front and rear brake lights are on the same circuit.

-Good Luck

BTW, why couldn’t the shop rebuild your starter?
Before you put it back in the bike, remove the nose and make sure it is lubricated.
Before you put it back in the bike, bench test it…. secure it so it doesn’t move, touch a negative 12VDC source to the BODY,
and a positive 12VDC source to the STUD and the starter should spin without hesitation.
If it does not spin, you just saved the time, frustration and aggravation of installation. (and add investigating why it doesn’t spin to your list of things to do.....)

Again, Good Luck.

-Ride On

[cwalters2002]

First, operate the brake pedal and see that the brake light operates.
(Yes, I know you mentioned it does work, but let’s start at a known good point – ignition is ON and the bulbs work)
Next, make sure the circuit works without the switch.
Basically, remove the two wires going to the switch and touch them together.
If that doesn’t operate the brake lights, you may not be getting power TO the switch and additional investigating will be required.
If that doesn’t operate the brake lights, reattach the wires to the switch and operate the hand lever.
If that doesn’t operate the brake lights, remove the two wires and then remove the switch from the handlebars.
If yours is like mine, there should be a little button on the side of the switch somewhere. This is how the switch is operated by the lever.
Also, if yours is like mine, there should be a small hole in the top or bottom of the switch housing.
If you look in that hole while depressing and releasing the little button, you should see some movement. These are the contacts and arms inside.
Spray some contact cleaner (or WD-40 will work) in the little hole, it doesn’t take much.
Using your fingers, manually operate the switch through many, many cycles of off/on.
This will clean off possible dirt, or oxidation which may have accumulated on the contacts of the switch of your 27-year-old motorcycle.
You can bench test the switch or simply plug the two wires back onto the switch and operate it manually.
This procedure should work.
If this doesn’t work, it might need replacement.

Remember, if you aren’t getting power TO the switch, then trace that feed back until you locate the trouble spot.
If the brake pedal operated the brake lights, it is not the fuse since the front and rear brake lights are on the same circuit.

-Good Luck

BTW, why couldn’t the shop rebuild your starter?
Before you put it back in the bike, remove the nose and make sure it is lubricated.
Before you put it back in the bike, bench test it…. secure it so it doesn’t move, touch a negative 12VDC source to the BODY,
and a positive 12VDC source to the STUD and the starter should spin without hesitation.
If it does not spin, you just saved the time, frustration and aggravation of installation. (and add investigating why it doesn’t spin to your list of things to do.....)

Again, Good Luck.

-Ride On

Thanks again for the info...I will give that a shot tonight with the brake switch and see where I'm at. I'm hoping its just dirty contacts...keeping fingers crossed!!! The shop had my starter for about a week. They started by cleaning it all out because they said it was dirty and then said that they needed new brushes. After ordering those in they said they put it all back together and bench tested it and within a few seconds the starter was so hot you couldn't even touch it. They recommended the replacement as they didn't think it would be safe to use it at that point. I did however take the old starter if anyone has info on what could cause it to overheat I would like to repair it as a backup!!

Thanks!

[bs175dths]

My initial guess as to why it is getting too hot to touch is the shop shorted power to the body!
Yea, I wouldn’t trust the starter (or the shop for that matter) until the problem is identified and corrected.

These things operate in a tight area and strands of wire or misrouted wire (broken wire insolation or exposed wires) touching the body will cause the body to get hot.
There is also an insulating plate which may have been damaged.

There is a step by step how-to done on an 82 GL1100 and written by Tim Wentzell.
It is located at WWW.GOLDWINGFACTS.COM – Thanks goes out to all!!!

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/starterrefresh.htm

Keep in mind when shopping for a “new” starter, the 1984 units ARE NOT interchangeable with the other years!

READ, READ, AND RE-READ all you can about the starters and the differences. Don’t buy the wrong starter.

-Ride On

[85GL1200I]

Sounds like you have made some serious progress! I hope you have enjoyed your time working on the wing, I find if fairly easy to work on although I get nervous jumping into things I have never tinkered with. Just think if this was a new bike with a $400 a month payment and you were scratching your head with no idea how all the gizmos/gadgets/computers etc. worked?

I hope you get the starter sorted out, lots of guys here have rebuilt those - I've been lucky and mine is still original.

Good luck! BTW, I may have missed it, but what tires did you end up getting?

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Hey, I just looked at your STILL TO DO list - there are aftermarket parts like belts, rad cap, etc. that can save you lots of bucks - do some searching on this site and you will find mfg and part numbers - us old guys like to save our cash for the ice cream stands, my bike can't go past one to save our life......... :-)

[cwalters2002]

Sounds like you have made some serious progress! I hope you have enjoyed your time working on the wing, I find if fairly easy to work on although I get nervous jumping into things I have never tinkered with. Just think if this was a new bike with a $400 a month payment and you were scratching your head with no idea how all the gizmos/gadgets/computers etc. worked?

I hope you get the starter sorted out, lots of guys here have rebuilt those - I've been lucky and mine is still original.

Good luck! BTW, I may have missed it, but what tires did you end up getting?

---

Hey, I just looked at your STILL TO DO list - there are aftermarket parts like belts, rad cap, etc. that can save you lots of bucks - do some searching on this site and you will find mfg and part numbers - us old guys like to save our cash for the ice cream stands, my bike can't go past one to save our life......... :-)

Thanks!! I didn't want a bike that I knew nothing about and had to have the dealer do everything with I have found all these little projects rewarding in their own right!! I changed out the oil tonight and just couldn't take it any longer so I took her out and put 5 miles on her...and to my surprise she seems fairly smooth with the exception of the trunk that I forgot to latch...lol!!!

I did do some looking for after market parts and actually bought the timing belts and radiator cap, and thermostat from Napa with some part numbers...found that you have to know the part numbers when you walk in there...but you live and you learn!!!

I ended up going with the Shinko 230 tourmaster tires...for the money every review I have found said they were very good tires...only a few miles on them right now but they seem to stick pretty good!

Thanks again for everyones help and advice...it has helped me get "Gemma" at least back on the road riding...still lots to do but I feel ALOT more confident tackling these projects on my own now!!!