Thread Rating:
  • 3 Vote(s) - 3.33 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Rear Brake Peddle bottoms out
Hi! I'm a new member and the reason I am here is because I have a 1984 Goldwing Limited Edition with only 55,000 km. Yes Canada Hey!

Anyway, I took it out for a spin the day before yesterday and when I braked, my rear brake peddle floored! No brake! The front worked fine though so I got it home OK. BTW it does sit in my garage for a while and I don't take it out as much as I should.

After reading all the threads here, I'm at a quandary as where to start.
I checked the lines, no leaks, I checked the pads (originals) and lots of pad left. The rear calipers worked fine, but very little pressure. Fluids are up, but has not been changed since I bought it in 1985.

And in reading all the threads on the subject, I would like your opinions as to where to start.
Huh
1985 GL1200 Limited
1971 CB750K1 Candy Gold
1972 CB750K2 Project
1973 CB750K3 Candy Gold
1974 CB750K4 Project
And more coming........
Reply
#1 07-14-2013, 12:40 PM,
Welcome to this forum.
I would start with purging both brake systems of old fluid.
These systems are so small, purging is not too far from bleeding.
With your bike sitting for long periods, purging, bleeding, fresh fluid is a good start.
I suspect you have air in the system which is why the pedal doesn't operate the caliper.

Remember two things:
1. the pedal operates the left rear disc and the right front disc.
the lever operates the left, front ONLY
(these are not separated, front and rear)
2. when bleeding any brake system, start with the slave cylinder (or caliper) which is the farthest from the master.

So, on our bikes, bleed the front, right caliper first, then the rear when bleeding the brake pedal master cylinder.
Since the hand lever only operates the left, front, bleeding is a no brain-er.

Start with a purge and a bleed of both systems and go from there.
You can bleed the system by yourself, a friend makes it go faster (and someone to talk to), a tool can make it easier and go faster, but is not necessary.
I do my own bleeding with only a open end, box wrench
Remember too, the pedal height can be adjusted to suit your needs.

If this doesn't fix the problem, the master or the caliper, or both, may need attention.

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#2 07-14-2013, 01:49 PM,
Thanks, I'll try that as soon as I can get the DOT 4 fluid.
I've done break bleeds before, but only on cars.
I'll get my friend (wife) to operate the controls. It won't take long.

Thanks Again!
1985 GL1200 Limited
1971 CB750K1 Candy Gold
1972 CB750K2 Project
1973 CB750K3 Candy Gold
1974 CB750K4 Project
And more coming........
Reply
#3 07-14-2013, 01:59 PM,
On cars, I have always liked the 'depress and release, one, two, three, times, hold it depressed, open the bleeder, don't let the pedal or lever bottom out, close the bleeder, release the pedal' technique. It has always served me well.
The only difference between a car and our wings is the joining of the front, right and the rear, left brakes into the one brake pedal. The front caliper being farther away from the rear master than the rear caliper.
BTW - isn't our 'friend' nice to have beside us?

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#4 07-14-2013, 02:13 PM,
Thank you for your advice.
I did exactly as you recommended and cleaned out my brake system.
Replaced the old (brownish stuff) with the new DOT4 and my brakes worked fine after that.
Lots of pressure and good contact on the pads.
I did the left front as well!
Thanks again for the advise and the path you suggested to get them working again.
Also, just in case, could you recommend a source for replacing the brake lines?

BTW Yes! it's nice to have the friend beside you and behind you when your riding. The hugs are nice!
1985 GL1200 Limited
1971 CB750K1 Candy Gold
1972 CB750K2 Project
1973 CB750K3 Candy Gold
1974 CB750K4 Project
And more coming........
Reply
#5 07-15-2013, 07:32 PM,
Hello and welcome to the site,
I also have a Limited Edition and there are two other LTD owners on the island.
one of them a certified MC mechanic, we love these beautiful old bikes and if you need some help we'll be happy to help.
I restored mine 3 years ago and love to ride it now that I feel I could take it across the country and not worry about it.
Johan
Reply
#6 07-16-2013, 09:09 AM,
(07-15-2013, 07:32 PM)bwigger Wrote: Thank you for your advice.
I did exactly as you recommended and cleaned out my brake system.
Replaced the old (brownish stuff) with the new DOT4 and my brakes worked fine after that.
Lots of pressure and good contact on the pads.
I did the left front as well!
Thanks again for the advise and the path you suggested to get them working again.
Also, just in case, could you recommend a source for replacing the brake lines?

BTW Yes! it's nice to have the friend beside you and behind you when your riding. The hugs are nice!

Hi I have a 85 Ltd like you at this time I'm in the beginning stages of replacing my brake lines with HEL stainless steel braided lines. If interested contact me and I will let you know how it goes and the problems I run into.

Ship
Fair winds and following seas..........to all

Main bike 85 Ltd
Two 84 Asspys
85 Ltd part bike
New to the barn 89 1500A
Reply
#7 07-16-2013, 09:22 AM,
(07-15-2013, 07:32 PM)bwigger Wrote: Thank you for your advice.
I did exactly as you recommended and cleaned out my brake system.
Replaced the old (brownish stuff) with the new DOT4 and my brakes worked fine after that.
Lots of pressure and good contact on the pads.
I did the left front as well!
Thanks again for the advise and the path you suggested to get them working again.
Also, just in case, could you recommend a source for replacing the brake lines?

BTW Yes! it's nice to have the friend beside you and behind you when your riding. The hugs are nice!

While it is fresh in your mind, since the brake fluid came out brownish, you may want to consider doing the same for the clutch fliud.
It too uses the DOT 4 and it too may be brown in color.
The clutch slave cylinder is at the back of the engine with easy access once you remove the black, plastic, gas vapor collection container located on the left side of the bike, down low, near the lower frame and it is held in place with a single 8 or 10MM bolt.
Of course, being 'up north' you may not have this black. plastic box.

Just a suggestion.
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#8 07-16-2013, 11:15 AM,
(07-16-2013, 11:15 AM)bs175dths Wrote:
(07-15-2013, 07:32 PM)bwigger Wrote: Thank you for your advice.
I did exactly as you recommended and cleaned out my brake system.
Replaced the old (brownish stuff) with the new DOT4 and my brakes worked fine after that.
Lots of pressure and good contact on the pads.
I did the left front as well!
Thanks again for the advise and the path you suggested to get them working again.
Also, just in case, could you recommend a source for replacing the brake lines?

BTW Yes! it's nice to have the friend beside you and behind you when your riding. The hugs are nice!

While it is fresh in your mind, since the brake fluid came out brownish, you may want to consider doing the same for the clutch fliud.
It too uses the DOT 4 and it too may be brown in color.
The clutch slave cylinder is at the back of the engine with easy access once you remove the black, plastic, gas vapor collection container located on the left side of the bike, down low, near the lower frame and it is held in place with a single 8 or 10MM bolt.
Of course, being 'up north' you may not have this black. plastic box.

Just a suggestion.

I'm thinking about doing this, but I want to test the brakes first to make sure that they are now OK. I'm a little worried that my brake lines are deteriorating on the inside. I noticed one black particle in the rear line when I was purging them. That's why I was looking for brake lines. One member suggested using an aftermarket product, but I want to keep mine as original as possible. Good suggestion though! I will do it as soon as I find that little black box (just kidding, it's there).

(07-16-2013, 09:09 AM)firstwing85 Wrote: Hello and welcome to the site,
I also have a Limited Edition and there are two other LTD owners on the island.
one of them a certified MC mechanic, we love these beautiful old bikes and if you need some help we'll be happy to help.
I restored mine 3 years ago and love to ride it now that I feel I could take it across the country and not worry about it.

Nice to know that there are others on the island. I did notice one other one in Comox Valley but I was just going the wrong way in my car. These bikes are rare on the Island, way, way too many Harleys.

BTW when you restored the bike, did you do anything to the Computer Display Panel on the tank?
Mine is really weathered and I would like to get it back to its original condition. Any suggestions?
1985 GL1200 Limited
1971 CB750K1 Candy Gold
1972 CB750K2 Project
1973 CB750K3 Candy Gold
1974 CB750K4 Project
And more coming........
Reply
#9 07-16-2013, 06:04 PM,
Actually I didn't have to do anything to the trip computer as it was in good shape.
Maybe Tricky or Neoracer might have an idea for you.
Johan
Reply
#10 07-16-2013, 08:11 PM,
This might be a silly question but the Bike is new to you and do you know for sure the previous owner has not misaligned the brake? First thing I would have done is removed the brake lever and moved it up a couple of teeth
Reply
#11 07-17-2013, 04:46 AM,
Be careful when rotating the brake pedal on the toothed shaft.
Start with the service book procedure for brake pedal adjustments and go from there as far as to pedal height in relationship to the foot peg.
My PO didn't know how to adjust the pedal and actually tapped a piece of 1X1 to the top of the pedal to give it more height. I adjusted the pedal per the lock nut and the adjusting rod and haven't had a problem since.

But 1060dsl is correct, make sure the pedal is positioned correctly on its shaft.

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#12 07-17-2013, 07:45 AM,
(07-17-2013, 04:46 AM)1060dsl Wrote: This might be a silly question but the Bike is new to you and do you know for sure the previous owner has not misaligned the brake? First thing I would have done is removed the brake lever and moved it up a couple of teeth

I am the one and only owner of the bike. I bought it in 1985 (paid the premium) from Riverside Honda in St. Albert, Alberta. All the mileage is mine, mine, mine.Big GrinBig GrinBig Grin
1985 GL1200 Limited
1971 CB750K1 Candy Gold
1972 CB750K2 Project
1973 CB750K3 Candy Gold
1974 CB750K4 Project
And more coming........
Reply
#13 07-17-2013, 09:56 AM,
(07-17-2013, 09:56 AM)bwigger Wrote:
(07-17-2013, 04:46 AM)1060dsl Wrote: This might be a silly question but the Bike is new to you and do you know for sure the previous owner has not misaligned the brake? First thing I would have done is removed the brake lever and moved it up a couple of teeth

I am the one and only owner of the bike. I bought it in 1985 (paid the premium) from Riverside Honda in St. Albert, Alberta. All the mileage is mine, mine, mine.Big GrinBig GrinBig Grin

.... so the answer to the question is....... No? Tongue


You must know this bike inside and out? Every chip, scratch and little speck of rust!
I don't know about you but, when I am (im)patiently waiting for the traffic light to change, I will talk to my bike and pat it on the shelter as if I am talking and patting a horse. (it's the meds.)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#14 07-17-2013, 10:29 AM,
I know the bike and have taken it down and built it up again. Never had a rust problem as I store it in my garage covered up in its own blanket. After a few bad incidents ( 3 in total) in having a reputable dealer service my bike, I now do all the work myself and and have the dealer do the work on the specific part because of the specialty tools they have (and only once for the tires).
So yes I know my bike(s) inside and out; its my baby!
1985 GL1200 Limited
1971 CB750K1 Candy Gold
1972 CB750K2 Project
1973 CB750K3 Candy Gold
1974 CB750K4 Project
And more coming........
Reply
#15 07-17-2013, 05:18 PM,


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Rear brake bleed??? seagullplayer 10 5,680 05-21-2014, 05:51 PM
Last Post: Roleketu
  Rear brake bleeding problem Frank 23 6,644 08-21-2012, 01:04 AM
Last Post: Frank
  Hose to rear brake reservoir jcmaun 4 1,901 07-09-2012, 04:15 PM
Last Post: admin
  rear brake line Usblack129 5 2,107 06-16-2012, 06:30 PM
Last Post: Usblack129
  Rear Brake Draggiing BikerNewsman 11 4,493 06-14-2012, 07:01 AM
Last Post: unionjack
  Wear limits on rear brake disc old gold 12 4,491 04-28-2012, 07:28 PM
Last Post: SIR tricky
  Rear Brake sticking Claymore 8 2,883 02-24-2012, 10:13 AM
Last Post: seabee
  Rear Brake Caliper bolt sheridat 3 1,664 02-06-2012, 04:09 PM
Last Post: sheridat
  Anyone got a Rear Brake Pipe B - part no 43312-MG9-000 sheridat 8 2,748 01-21-2012, 01:08 PM
Last Post: sheridat
  Rear Brake Seals - OD sheridat 1 1,280 10-01-2011, 08:34 AM
Last Post: sheridat

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Contact Us | GL1200 GOLDWINGS | Return to Top | | Lite (Archive) Mode | RSS Syndication
google-site-verification: googled4b4fe31e07b65d8.html