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Updated Poorboy Installation Instructions
Go to the link below and click on "GM Alternator for GL1200 by Donald (Poorboy)Pigott "

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://bobsold.goldwingfacts.com/">http://bobsold.goldwingfacts.com/</a><!-- m -->

although this shows the older 2" Pulley, Don provides a larger pulley with his kit now.



Got Don and Vic's permission to post this. Please let me know if I can improve it. I appreciate ALL the help from a lot of people when I did my installation.

Here we go . . . .

------------------------------------

Instructions for installing GM alternator on GL1200 by Donald (Poorboy) Pigott (updated for Kit use)

External Alternator Conversion

Questions or to get current Conversion Kit price, send email to <!-- e --><a href="mailto:don_pigott@yahoo.com">don_pigott@yahoo.com</a><!-- e --> or <!-- e --><a href="mailto:goldwinger1984@yahoo.com">goldwinger1984@yahoo.com</a><!-- e -->

(if you click the address above, it {should } create an email addressed to Don. There is an underscore you can't see in the real email address:don_pigott@yahoo.com)

Ordering PoorBoy Conversion Kit:

* - - - Login to your PayPal Account (or contact Don for other payment plans)
* - - - * - - - <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.paypal.com/">https://www.paypal.com/</a><!-- m -->
* - - - PayPal - Send Money Tab
* - - - To:don_pigott@yahoo.com (EMAIL Address)
* - - - Amount: (check with PoorBoy for specific price when you buy it)
* - - - Currency: USD U.S. Dollars
* - - - For: Goods
* - - - CONTINUE
* - - - Add Subject, Message
* - - - Click Send Money button bottom of page
* - - - DONE.

(NOTE: (again) Don's email address contains an underscore:don_pigott@yahoo.com)

After ordering the PoorBoy Kit you will need to get these parts:

· Alternator from a 89-93 Geo Metro 3 cylinder
o - - - - - - There are many Alternators you can use but the one pictured below is a known commodity.
o - - - - - - Even when you go to the parts store, you may see different sizes and shapes.
o - - - - - - Make SURE YOUR ALTERNATOR LOOKS LIKE THE ONE PICTURED BELOW

With the new larger crank pulley it will take a different length belt. It needs to be 31.5" long.
o - - - - - -
· Wiring is 1 piece of 8ga AND 1 piece of 14ga both about 3' long.
o - - - - - - Hi-end Auto Audio stores have wires (Meyer Emco / Circuit City / Best Buy)
· 50 Amp Fuse for 8ga wire
o - - - - - - Marine Stores have 12V 50 Amp Manual Reset Breakers (pic below)
o - - - - - - Truck Stops, Audio and Auto Part Stores have Amp Holders and 50 Amp Fuses
· 15 Amp Fuse for 14ga wire
o - - - - - - Auto Parts stores have inline Amp Holders and Mini-fuses

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Alternator-Worldwide_5848628-P_11_R|GRPALTSAMS_539232063___">http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 9232063___</a><!-- m -->

Also, click the link below and look for the IMAGE icon
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.densoaftermarket.com/catalog/catalog.php?part=altn&year=1995&make=GEO&model=METRO&engine_type=L3">http://www.densoaftermarket.com/catalog ... ne_type=L3</a><!-- m -->

The parts listed above are needed for sure. Variations of those parts or other optional parts are listed in the text below

Contents of Poorboy External Alternator Kit

· Upper and lower Alternator mounting brackets with mounting bolts
· Radiator mounting bracket extenders with spacers and nuts
· Pulley and longer Crank bolt

[Image: 2-Kit-Parts.gif]


ALTERNATOR INSTALLATION

Each installation is unique so you will have to tinker around for your bike’s characteristics. Start by removing

· Both fairing lowers,
· Left horn,
· Radiator,
· Fan assembly & air duct on left side.

When you are removing the radiator, pay close attention to the orientation of the lower fairing mounting pieces. That will make it easier to install later on . . . Might want to mark them with a grease pencil, right and left, and note where they fit in relation to the radiator and bushings. You'll be happy later . . .

You will have to cut the brace out that the horn bracket is welded to. Grind the upper end flush with the flat part of the bracket, as there is a reinforcement plate to go there (pictured below). Be careful grinding to not bugger up the threads. You might want to put some other nuts on the threads to protect them when grinding. Also you are pretty darn close to the Carburetor. You might want to be careful to avoid the "custom" etching I did on mine :lol: :lol: - (IF by chance you need to repair something, JB Weld works GREAT!!!)

[Image: 3-Upper_bracket.gif]

Install the supplied reinforcement plate and original fairing mount. The original fairing mount goes under the reinforcement bracket this will keep the proper placement for fairing reinstall later. You need to grind the original brackets flat where they are under the new reinforcement.


I replaced my Cam Belts using the parts in the cross reference chart on the Parts Locator Thread ( <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?t=162">http://gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?t=162</a><!-- m --> ). You are RIGHT there and can replace the belts for $25-30. Tricky posted some instructions on this but I could not find them to add the link. My belts were "loose" (55,000 miles) and the bike acted finicky when cold. MUCH better now. Your call what you want to do. Pretty easy to do.


Remove the left engine to frame bolt just above the timing belt cover, inboard of the intake manifold. Install the lower mounting bracket using the engine to frame bolt.


Trial fit the alternator (you will have to trim the alt. some) . You will have to put the left cover back on for this. NOTE: "Trimming" the alternator was removing the rear mounting lug in my case. I also ground off some casing material that would be close to the fairing cover to minimize the amount the cover will have to be "bubbled". When trimming the alternator, cover it so it does not get metal grinding inside. Tape works and go slow.

[Image: AltTaped.gif]

With the alternator roughly in place it is time to install the crank pulley. Take the left cover back off and remove the crank bolt. You can use an impact wrench or put the bike in top gear and have someone step on the rear brake. Bolt uses standard threading; clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen.


Next you will cut the timing covers to fit around the new crank pulley stem. Just cut the timing covers enough so the pulley stem fits through the timing belt cover (the pulley fits completely OUTSIDE the timing belt covers). Go slow when cutting and you might as well polish the timing covers at this time Tongue .

[Image: CamCoverHole.gif]

NOTE: Make sure the right timing cover (i.e. passenger side) is on and TIGHT, before proceeding to the next step. The right timing cover needs to be on and TIGHT to compress the rubber seal. This is important. BIG TIP - NOT TOO TIGHT!!! Trust me, its a long story, TIGHT but don't go crazy tightening it Check Torque specs or just use common sense. Tip it is a CAST block and the bolts receptacles CAN break off. Then it gets ugly :oops: :oops: :oops:


Put the crank pulley on using the longer bolt . You will reuse the thick washer just under the bolt head & the larger thin washer(timming belt guide)behind the crank pulley.


Install the crank bolt with “BLUE” Locktite, NOT “red” (Loctite 242 for example)


Put the belt on and pull it tight. Pull the alternator up against the reinforcement plate.

[Image: BeltInstalled.gif]

[Image: InstalledBelt.gif]

You will have to trim the front screw bracket that holds the fairing lower. This is the one under the new reinforcement bracket.

[Image: 4-Upper_bracket.gif]

Some people have found a SPOT for the removed horn. If you can bolt and connect the horn up in the general area it came from, go for it.


The bottom of the radiator needs to be moved forward using the provided radiator extension bolts that screw on the original radiator-mounting studs (pictured below). You will have to remove the metal spacers that were on the rubber mounts for the new bolts to fit thru the lower radiator mounts.

[Image: 6-Extension.gif] - - - [Image: 7-Extension-Install.gif]

The lower fairing mounting brackets need to be drilled to fit the new bolt size on the radiator extensions. NOTE: The mounting bracket for the fairing lowers is then installed on the extension behind the radiator rubber mounts behind the radiator (as it was before).

[Image: DrillFairingHole.gif]

When you disassemble the lower fairing brackets to drill them you might get confused on how they go back on (personally speaking). The brackets go on with the Square Notch pointing DOWN towards the floor and the fairing mount OUT. Thank God for the Clymer picture . . . ..


The bottom hose will reach the engine, just loosen both clamps and wiggle it around a bit.


Here is an optional item to consider. The factory hose WILL fit as stated above. I went to an auto parts store (AutoZone) with the existing lower hose and tried to find one with the "right curves". With the following hose, you will be able to cut a section out for the lower AND the piece left over looks like an exact fit for the top hose (but I did not install). Hose 3033 14-1973-6 M 63027 There was not a brand name but 3033 and 63027 were on the label 3 times and the bar code number was 0 37256 03793 1. NOTE: cut the lower hose to the needed length first, then see if the top fits.

This information was also provided: Radiator Hose: (Cut in half to make 2 hoses)
  • NAPA – 7733
    Gates – 21008
    CarQuest - 21029 (made by Gates) [/list:u]


    The fan mount will have to be altered some.

    You will have to remove the left lower leg from the fan mount as shown below.

    [Image: 8-Radiator.gif]


    NEXT STEP - Move the radiator fan assembly closer to the radiator . . . . .There are TWO ways to do this . . . .

    OPTION ONE:

    Bend both lower leg mounts toward the radiator core, shown below:


    [Image: 9-Radiator.gif]


    Grind a little off of the lower fan shroud to get the fan blade as close the radiator core as possible to lessen the amount the radiator will have to be moved forward. (NOTE: I ground off a LOT. My fan is close the radiator, really close).

    OPTION TWO:

    PARTS: You will need to get THREE 1 inch 5X80 Metric bolts and SIX nuts to fit those bolts

    Poorboy has another method to TILT the fan and here it is: You can remove the screws that hold fan & motor to the bracket & replace with some longer bolts. Use 2 nuts on eack bolt to adjust the fan as close to the radiator as possible. Also notch the fan shroud in the middle a little to clear the crank pulley. Below are the pictures he sent on how to do this.


    From a Poorboy email: "Instead of bending the legs of the fan mount take the 3 screws out that hold the fan motor to the mount. Replace them with bolts about 1" long (bolts are 5x80). Thread the bolts in the from the opposite side from the way they came out. You will need 2 nuts for each bolt. Put 1 nut on each bolt, then put on the fan motor. Adjust the first nut until the fan blade just clears the radiator. The 2 towards the bottom will be turned down farther than the 1 at the top. The fan blade will be cocked some. Make sure the blade clears the fan shroud. Install the other nut on the bolts and tighten. You will also have to notch the lower part of the shroud to clear the crank pulley. I have done this to the last couple conversions I have done and it realy works good. "

    [Image: PoorboyBoltMod1.gif]

    [Image: PoorboyBoltMod2.gif]

    [Image: PoorboyBoltMod3.gif]

    [Image: PoorboyBoltMod4.gif]

    [Image: PoorboyBoltMod5.gif]


    END RADIATOR FAN SECTION

    Both fairing lowers will have to be trimmed some around the lower part of the radiator. Trim as little as you need to clear and not stress the part


    This may not be needed so check before you modify any fairing parts for fit and alignment. The left lower fairing will have to be fitted around the alternator. Use a heat gun to heat the backside and while still hot put it in place and mold it around the alternator (shown below). Be careful while heating as not to get it too hot and bubble the paint or melt the plastic.

    There is a heat shield that will have to be trimmed to clear the alternator also. You will have to remove a good portion of this as the heat shield goes into the are where the Alternator now resides.

    [Image: 10-Cover.gif]


    WIRING

    There is a LOT of good information on the

    · GL1200 GOLD WINGS forum ( this forum )( <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://gl1200goldwings.com/index.php">http://gl1200goldwings.com/index.php</a><!-- m --> )
    · In the CHARGING SYSTEM AND CONVERSION ALTERNATORS section
    · In topic: Poorboys alternator and EC harness
    · Look for this post by Tnroadrider, dated Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:39 pm

    There is a link <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.electricalrebuilders.org/techlib/techbasics/0604techbasicshondatoyota.pdf">http://www.electricalrebuilders.org/tec ... toyota.pdf</a><!-- m --> that contains a lot of good info

    For the Alternator referenced earlier, this applies:

    HONDA VARIATIONS

    Honda has several variations of this charging system. ï€ï€ 3 terminals with D terminal - Some Civics have only IG and L terminals. The third is a D (dummy) terminal and is not connected to anything.

    [Image: 11-Wiring.gif]

    Find a switched circuit (power on only with ignition) up near the fuse box, tap into that circuit with a 14 gauge wire, fasten that wire to the ignition terminal (IG pictured above) on the alternator, this will in a sense turn on the alternator to start charging. Place a 15 Amp inline fuse on this wire.

    You would need to run an 8-gauge wire from the large output post on the alternator to the positive (+) terminal on your battery or where your battery connects to your starter solenoid. Do not run the alternator without all wires being hooked up to avoid damage to the alternator.

    IMPORTANT!!!! BE SURE TO USE A 50 AMP FUSE FROM THE LARGE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TERMINAL TO THE BATTERY, MOUNT IT AS CLOSE TO BATTERY CONNECTION AS POSSIBLE. Tricky pointed me to a manual reset 50Amp Breaker I got from a marine store for a trolling motor. It is a slick tool and looks like this:

    [Image: 12-50Amp-ManualBreaker.gif]

    Top View

    [Image: BreakerTopView.gif]

    The brand name I used was MotorGuide 50 Amp Circuit Breaker MM5870 bar code 7 45061 55475 7 This breaker is very small maybe the size of a thumbnail and I followed Tricky's lead and put it ON TOP of the battery.


    DON'T JUST CRIMP YOUR CONNECTIONS, SOLDER THEM AS WELL.


    Unplug the factory voltage regulator from under the Faux gas tank. The OLD instructions said to "Undo and cap the 3 yellow wires close to the factory voltage regulator" It was pointed out these wires go INTO the factory voltage regulator so if you unplug the harness, you are done. Much easier.



    For any questions or to order your installation kit, email Donald Pigott at <!-- e --><a href="mailto:don_pigott@yahoo.com">don_pigott@yahoo.com</a><!-- e -->


    (if you click the address above, it {should } create an email addressed to Don. There is an underscore you can't see in the real email address:don_pigott@yahoo.com)


    Tell me how to improve these directions . . . .

    Here is what needs to be changed to make the thread accurate. I'd
    appreciate if those changes could be made. I would do it if I could.
    Thanks. Bill Luch


    Take care and ride safe!

    = = = = = =

    OLD

    • Fan belt is a Gates Micro-V # KO 30290
    o - - - - - - The AutoZone Part # for belt (Not Gate's label) = 290K3 ---
    3PK735
    o - - - - - - THE NAPA #25030290


    = = = = = =

    NEW

    • Fan belt is a NAPA Part No 25030310 This belt is 31.68”
    You can also use a Gates belt # KO40315. That is a 4 rib belt. I just cut 1 rib off.


    = = = = = =

    OLD


    Contents of Poorboy External Alternator Kit

    · Upper and lower Alternator mounting brackets with mounting bolts
    · Radiator mounting bracket extenders with spacers and nuts
    · spacer and Crank bolt





    = = = = = =

    NEW

    Contents of Poorboy External Alternator Kit

    · Upper and lower Alternator mounting brackets with mounting bolts
    · Radiator mounting bracket extenders with spacers and nuts
    · Pulley and longer crank bolt bolt






    = = = = = = OLD stuff but I modified text below to indicate it will look
    about the same just with the new pulley


    Install the crank bolt with “BLUE” Locktite, NOT “red” (Loctite 242 for
    example)


    Put the belt on and pull it tight. Pull the alternator up against the
    reinforcement plate.
85 & 93 Aspencade's
Reply
#1 07-27-2007, 06:59 PM,
Well done Bill. Very clear and comprehensive instructions.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#2 07-27-2007, 07:14 PM,
admin Wrote:Well done Bill. Very clear and comprehensive instructions.

Thanks Vic. I added some more info regarding Tricky's 50 Amp Manual Circuit breaker, brand name, model number / bar code. Also I found a radiator hose from AutoZone that works a bit better for the lower radiator hose if people wanted to pursue it. You don't need to replace the radiator hose as Don states, but if you wanted to spend $6 , , , , you could replace both the upper and lower hose while doing the conversion. Don't need to but . . . . optional
85 & 93 Aspencade's
Reply
#3 07-28-2007, 07:25 PM,
Just to clarify things Bill went in and added a great amount of needed detail to Don's original installation instructions and that's what I was thanking him for.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#4 07-29-2007, 09:08 AM,
Great work Bill. Some of us have altered the original setup pretty drastically. I placed the fan on the front of the rad to get a lot more room behind the rad and installed a 5" pulley. That freaks out some but it works like a charm. :lol:
Reply
#5 07-29-2007, 05:11 PM,
sundance Wrote:Great work Bill. Some of us have altered the original setup pretty drastically. I placed the fan on the front of the rad to get a lot more room behind the rad and installed a 5" pulley. That freaks out some but it works like a charm. :lol:
Bill thank you. I did read your post and like others thought it was very good. If you want I could post it at the end of the instructions as an optional item to consider. If so, please post where the info is in this format

If you wanted to place the fan in front of the radiator, look at the information posted here:

· GL1200 GOLD WINGS forum ( this forum ) ( <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://gl1200goldwings.com/index.php">http://gl1200goldwings.com/index.php</a><!-- m --> )
· In the CHARGING SYSTEM AND CONVERSION ALTERNATORS section
· In topic: WHAT TOPIC?
· Look for this post by YOUR LOGIN NAME, dated weekday MONTH DD, 200X XX:XX a/pm

Thanks. I think I read all your stuff regarding the conversions and realize MAN the people on this forum do some FINE work. I wish I had the time and skills to do what y'all do. Just happy to learn from it. Take care
85 & 93 Aspencade's
Reply
#6 07-29-2007, 05:31 PM,
Updated to use Don's new email address: <!-- e --><a href="mailto:don_pigott@yahoo.com">don_pigott@yahoo.com</a><!-- e -->

Old email was: <!-- e --><a href="mailto:poorboy57@juno.com">poorboy57@juno.com</a><!-- e -->

PayPal should work with the new email address I hear. Take care
85 & 93 Aspencade's
Reply
#7 07-30-2007, 08:55 AM,
I did not have to heat and bend my fairing. I have at least 2 inches of room!!
Reply
#8 08-04-2007, 04:21 AM,
Even with my mini alternator I still had to create room behind the fairing. I'd love to see your setup and how you got the extra space none of us seem to have. (I'm always looking for a better way) Big Grin
Reply
#9 08-04-2007, 08:03 AM,
BTW Bill, I'll send you the stuff on the pulley and front fan mount if you want it. I was going to send it to you via email but there isn't one in your profile. If you like shoot me an email and I'll send it in a reply.

<!-- e --><a href="mailto:bill@billfarrar.com">bill@billfarrar.com</a><!-- e -->
Reply
#10 08-04-2007, 08:06 AM,
Bill,

One correction my new email address is don_pigott, the way you have is listed it looks like don pigott.

Poorboy
Reply
#11 08-09-2007, 06:51 PM,
Just FYI, one of my chapter members is working on getting me a fan set up from some kind of delivery vehicle he works on at his place of employment. He says they have good CFM and are quite a bit thinner than our stock Honda fans. Soon as I get one and confirm they will work for the conversions I will post more info. Perhaps even start selling kits or make a deal with poor boy to include them with his kit. :wink:
John McFarland
Chapter Director
GWRRA FL2-W
member 367388
Reply
#12 08-10-2007, 06:56 AM,
That would be a big help John. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#13 08-10-2007, 09:53 AM,
joseph038 Wrote:I did not have to heat and bend my fairing. I have at least 2 inches of room!!
The embarrassing thing :oops: . . . I installed the conversion a LONG time ago (3-4 weeks) and did not finish putting it together. Been too HOT, been on vacation and had a '93 Aspencade to tide me over . . . . Hopefully I'll get to it and see if I have to bubble or not . . . . I did take off a pretty good size of the alternator case, as much as I could and still have metal left. Hopefully I'll get back at it tomorrow . . . . but I haven't ridden in a week (vacation), maybe tomorrow night . . . . :lol:
85 & 93 Aspencade's
Reply
#14 08-11-2007, 07:26 PM,
sundance Wrote:BTW Bill, I'll send you the stuff on the pulley and front fan mount if you want it. I was going to send it to you via email but there isn't one in your profile. If you like shoot me an email and I'll send it in a reply.

<!-- e --><a href="mailto:bill@billfarrar.com">bill@billfarrar.com</a><!-- e -->
YOU GOT MAIL (and I updated my profile. If you can or cannot see my email address now, I'd aprpeciate letting me know one way or the other. TANKS.)
85 & 93 Aspencade's
Reply
#15 08-11-2007, 07:41 PM,


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