No dash lights or any power when Ignition is turned on.

[Flounder]

Went for a beautiful ride today to test out the new Shinko's, like them a lot. After a three hour ride with 2 stops I came home to find my wifes car blocking the garage door. I shut the bike off and moved the car. When I turned the ignition on the cooling fan came on and then when I hit the start button everything went dead. I'm not sure if this is related but while coming down a hill on the way home I heard what sounded like a bearing noise from the fan so I pulled in the clutch and reved the motor to see if it changed tone and it did not, it stayed consistant. I pulled over to check it out and right before I came to a complete stop the sound stopped. I got off and looked at the fan and it was off and spun freely. When I turned the ignition on right before the problem the fan sounded normal. Not sure if it was the fan but definately not a motor noise.
The battery is less than a year old and it was on a trickle charger before the ride. I converted the dogbone to a blade and that fuse is fine as is the 10amp ACC fuse. Didn't really get into it more than that but thought I would see if anyone has any clues for me for when I look into it next. I have a Clymer that doesn't seem to ever help in trouble shooting. Has any body ever had a bearing noise from the fan? Thanks for reading

[neoracer]

i would pull the false tank and check that you have power to the igntion switch and after with the key on C80

backprobe the connector and see if you have 12v power on both sides (red)

see if you have power on both sides of black wire with key on

[SIR tricky]

On the right side steering well under rubber cover ( I think)

[thebro]

The print doesn't show the fuse size but 10 Amps sounds a little bit small to me. I would check that first.

Roger

---

Never mind I missread what you said.

[neoracer]

since you replaced the dogbone with a ato fuseholder,i have seen some inferior ato fuseholders which self-destruct,ya might place a jumper(fused) around the fuseholder and see what happens

course my 1st suspect would be the ignition switch

[Flounder]

Thanks Guys for your help, The ATO fuse and holder test O.K. I back probed all the ignition switch wires at the 2 connectors (both sides) inside the headlight bucket and only get 12v at the red wire ignition on or off. No current from the others on or off. Looks to me like the ignition switch failed but I am all ears if anyone thinks it could be something else. Hope you are not reading this yet but enjoying your holidays. Have a great one and thanks again.

[SIR tricky]

We never sleep

[Flounder]

Thank you Sir!

[neoracer]

no power at black wire in any position means the switch is bad,might as well get a later model switch off a 85-87
plenty on ebay
any 85-87 switch will work with exception of an ltd/sei
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GL1200-A-A...d4&vxp=mtr

its a buy it now so wouldn't even think twice

[Flounder]

Thank you neoracer

[Flounder]

Hi Everyone, So I found out my ignition switch is covered under the recall. I live 25 minutes drive to the nearest dealer so I figured I would pull the switch apart clean it up and then ride the bike there instead of towing. I put the switch back together bench tested for continuity using the schematic and all looks good. I plug the switch in before bolting it back up to try it and something very odd happens. When I first turn the switch to the ON position it takes a second or two before the dash lights come on and then only very dim, then they get progressively brighter over the next few seconds but never to full brightness. The battery is fully charged but there is barely enough power to run the turn signals. While watching the dash lights I checked and wiggled all the connectors in the headlight bucket and ignition system, nothing. Very odd. I'm stumped. Any ideas ? Thanks again.

[neoracer]

wire it around switch and see what happens,if you have a bad switch everything should be remedied then

[Flounder]

Hey Neoracer, when you say "wire it around switch" I guess you mean bypass the switch with jumpers which is a logical next step. The slow brightening of the dash lights just seems to be another problem but I will bypass and see what happens. Thanks Neoracer

wire it around switch and see what happens,if you have a bad switch everything should be remedied then

[bs175dths]

By-pass the switch or replace with a known good switch.

I don’t mean to beat a dead horse, but a poor quality battery which is less than a year old and was on a trickle charge before the ride is still a poor quality battery!

These bikes have a charging defect designed into them and saving a few pennies on a battery may cause you to chase your tail looking for an electric gremlin.
Of course if this is the best battery you can afford, just be aware, the cause of your electrical problems may be the battery.

You mentioned the battery was fully charged. How did you determine this?
Did you check the voltage? Was it at least 12.65V across the terminals? (engine off, key off)
Did you check to see if the fluid level in each cell is covering the fins?
Is there any white or grey stuff growing on the fins which are not covered by fluid?
Did you check the specific gravity of the fluid in each of the six cells? Was each cell at at least 50%?
If five cells are at 75% and one cell is at 25% after an extended charge from a trickle charger charging at a rate no more than 1.75A, you have a battery on its way out!

Please don’t assume the battery is good - it may be the cause.

-Ride On

[neoracer]

if you jumper from the red wire on bike connector and the black wire on the switch side you will have bypassed the switch

note: you will have power fulltime to mc and will have to use handlebar ignition off switch to stop motor and pull the fuse to remove power from mc